Fashion Figure of the Month
Guccio Gucci
In 1921, Guccio Gucci opened a leather goods company
and small luggage store in his native Florence. Though his vision for the brand
was inspired by London, and the refined aesthetic of English nobility he had
witnessed while working in the Savoy Hotel, his goal on returning to Italy was
to ally this classy sensibility with the unique skills of his native Italy specifically
with the master craftsmanship of local Tuscan artisans.
Within a few years, the label enjoyed such success
the sophisticated international clientele on vacation in Florence thronged to
Gucci’s bottega, seeking the equestrian-inspired collection of bags, trunks,
gloves, shoes and belts. Many of Guccio’s Italian clients were local
horse-riding aristocrats, and their demand for riding gear led Gucci to develop
its unique Horsebit icon - an enduring symbol of the fashion house and its
increasingly innovative design aesthetic.
Faced with a shortage of foreign supplies during the
difficult years of Fascist dictatorship in Italy, Gucci began experimenting
with atypical luxury materials, like hemp, linen and jute. One of its artisans’
most subtle innovations was burnishing cane to create the handle of the new
Bamboo Bag, whose curvy side was inspired by a saddle’s shape. An ingenious
example of “necessity as the mother of invention”, the bamboo became the first
of Gucci's many iconic products. A favorite of royalty and celebrities alike,
the bag with burnished handle remains a huge favorite today.
During the Fifties, Gucci again found equestrian
inspiration with its trademark green-red-green web stripe, derived from a
traditional saddle girth. It became an instant success and an instantly
recognizable hallmark of the brand. Opening stores in Milan and New York, Gucci
started to build its global presence as a symbol of modern luxury.
With the passing of Guccio Gucci in 1953, his sons
Aldo, Vasco, Ugo and Rodolfo took over the business.
Gucci products quickly became renowned for timeless
design and were cherished by iconic movie stars and figures of elegance in the
Jet Set era. Jackie Kennedy carried the Gucci shoulder bag, which is known
today as the Jackie O. Liz Taylor, Peter Sellers and Samuel Beckett sported the
unstructured, unisex Hobo Bag. Gucci’s classic moccasin with Horsebit hardware
became part of the permanent collection at the Costume Institute, Metropolitan
Museum of Art in New York. Gucci answers a personal request by Grace Kelly by
creating the now famous Flora silk print scarf for the Monaco princess.
In the mid-60s, Gucci adopted the legendary
interlocking double G logo, creating yet another chic Gucci visual insignia. Gucci
continued its expansion abroad with stores opening in London, Palm Beach, Paris
and Beverly Hills.
Gucci continued its global expansion, true to the
original aspirations of Aldo, and set its sights on the Far East. Stores opened
in Tokyo and Hong Kong. The company developed its first ready-to-wear
collections, featuring GG printed shirts or GG buttoned fur-trim coats.
The brand became famous for its unique mix of
innovative audacity and legendary Italian quality and craftsmanship. Gucci
icons were re-invented in new shapes or colors – burning the GG logo through
suede - using ever more luxurious materials, like baby crocodile coats with
sterling silver snakehead buckles.
In 1977, its Beverly Hills flagship was revamped
with a private Gucci Gallery, where privileged VIPs like Rita Hayworth or
Michael Caine could browse for $10,000 bags with detachable gold and diamond
chain or platinum fox bed throws.
In 1981 Gucci staged its first ever runway show in
Florence.
In 1982,
Gucci became a public limited company, and leadership passed to Rodolfo's son,
Maurizio Gucci, who held 50 percent of the company’s shares. In 1987,
Investcorp, a Bahrain-based investment company, began buying into Gucci,
eventually completing the purchase of all the company’s shares in the early
Nineties.
Source: The House of Gucci
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